Which Safe Do You Need
Start with what goes inside, not with the price tag. Tick what you plan to keep and where the safe will sit. You will see the fire class and burglary rating that match.
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- Fire and Theft They are two separate tests.
- Heat Limits Paper, film and drives each fail at a different heat.
- Lab Labels Look for UL or Intertek on the safe.
- Upstairs Look for a safe that passed a drop test.
Jump To Pick What You Keep Why the Mix Changes the Answer Once You Own It
Pick What You Keep
Class 350Fire Rating to Look For
No burglary rating needed for paper aloneBurglary Rating to Look For
Bolt it to the slab so it is harder to tip over or carry off.
Why the Mix Changes the Answer
A safe is only as good as its lowest limit for what is inside. Keep papers and a backup drive in the same box and the drive sets the rule, because Class 125 stays far cooler than Class 350. That is why many people buy a data box for the drives and keep it inside a larger fire safe.
Theft works the same way. An RSC label means five minutes against common hand tools, which suits most homes and gun safes. Retail jewelry and stock call for a TL rating that stands up to drills. See fire and burglary ratings for the full table and sources.
Once You Own It
- Bolt it down so it is harder to tip or carry off.
- Keep the receipt away from the safe, since it is your proof of ownership.
- Change the keypad battery on a schedule, using a name brand alkaline battery if your manual calls for one.
- Write the brand and model down, so a locksmith can plan the visit.
Questions We Get
Do you sell safes?
This tool is here to help you read the labels. Call us to open, repair, recode or anchor a safe, and ask about the safe you have in mind.
Does a higher rating always mean better?
Not always. A rating you do not need costs money and adds weight, and heavy safes can be hard to place on an upper floor.